Nails by Morena - F.A.Q / Nail Advice

F.A.Q

How long can I wear "fake" or artificial nails?" is a common question heard in our industry. My reply is that they are "Nail Enhancements", not fake nails. Just as make-up or haircolour is an enhancement and not described by the word "fake". How long they intend to keep wearing make-up or getting your hair done?

ALL Acrylic enhancement systems are "Organic"!

Acrylic enhancements do NOT ruin your natural nails - untrained nail technicians and self removal with teeth or other implements do!

Acrylic Nails and Gel Nails are both acrylic - just in different forms - not one system is "better" for your nails.

Gel nails very rarely lift (if applied correctly), but are not as strong as Liquid & Powder.

Liquid & Powder nails also do not lift if applied correctly and looked after correctly!

ALL Acrylic systems allow your natural nail to grow underneath.

95% of my clients started of with extensions, now their own nails are long underneath and they have overlays.

Nails do NOT need to "breathe" - the nail plate is porous, but does not need to "breathe" as it is made up of dead cells!

Upon removal, natural nails can feel more flexible for the first few days. This is down to two things - one, they are missing the support of the acrylic layer, and two, there can sometimes be a build up of oil on the surface of the nail plate which can soften it slightly. The effect is temporary and will only last a couple of days. It is wise to coat the nail with a strengthener for the first few days.

Do not use nail strengthener for long periods of time as it can cause your nails to become brittle.

Blowing on polish will lower adhesion and gloss of the finished product!

For your polish to last - prepare the nail thoroughly, use a base coat, then two coats of colour and a topcoat to seal - allowing sufficient time for ALL layers to dry in between!

Applying a second coat of polish too soon can result in an "orange peel effect".

The area to the back of the nail plate often referred to as cuticle, is actually called eponychium. Cuticle is the almost invisible layer that grows from under the eponychium to prevent bacteria getting under the skin. This layer can grow the full length of the natural nail and unless removed will prevent acrylic or polish from adhering properly - thus causing lifting in acrylic enhancements.

MMA - Methyl Methacrylate - is an ingredient used in monomers in the 1970's. This was proven to cause severe allergic reactions as it was able to "seep" into the skin. The majority of manufacturers changed their monomers and now use Ethyl Methacrylate as it is much safer. But, there are still some salons about who use MMA - referred to in the industry as NSS - Non Standard Salons! Their enhancements are usually very cheap (MMA is cheaper to buy than EMA), and are very very difficulty to remove - even with acetone. It will have a strong, almost fishy smell. It will be very difficult to file. Due to the incredible hardness of the product, there is a very real danger of losing a natural nail if you catch your enhancement. Use caution when choosing a salon - and don't be afraid to ask what products they use - be wary if they won't tell you or they don't know!

When placing your nails under a lamp to cure gel enhancements, occasionally you may feel a burn to your nail plate. This is either the gel has been applied to thickly, or the nail plate is damaged. In either case just remove your hand, then place it back in the lamp several times in quick succession until the heat has gone.

When your nails are at the fully prepped stage - and you are about to have the acrylic placed on your nails, playing with your hair/touching your face/answering your phone etc will put contaminants back on your nail plate and you will get LIFTING!!

Hypoallergenic means "less likely" to cause allergic reactions.

Bibliography: Nail Structure & Product Chemistry by Douglas D Schoon, The Complete Nail Technician by Marian Newman, Creative Nail Academy.

Please explain to me what is the different between acrylic, gel, silk, and crystal nails. I often hear manicurist say that Gel or crystal nails are better than the rest of the products. It seems like acrylic would damage my nails. Is it true.?

Acrylic is a liquid & powder mixed, applied with a brush and will harden (cure) with no lamps in 2 minutes or less.

Gel is, in basic terms, pre mixed acrylic that almost always needs to be cured under a UV lamp, Acrylic usually has an odor while gels are odorless, but both have vapors and need to be ventilated.

Silk (interchangeable with fiberglass and sometimes linen) is applied with resin (glue) and sometimes glue & acrylic powder.

Crystal nails is any enhancement done with CLEAR acrylic, gel or resin.

Are drills safe?(electric files)

Yes. As with any type of machine, Electric files are safe when properly used by trained technicians. It is not the machine that is dangerous, it is the improper use by the operator that creates a potential for damage.
I have seen horrible damage the cuticles and the nail bed caused by heavy handed manual filing more than electric files.
Professional electric files were designed for nails and so the shape of the bits improve the finish of enhancements as they can file neatly and cleanly around the cuticle unlike normal straight hand nail files that were designed to file the free edge not the surface of a nail.
In my salon i use only the best quality electric files available within the nail industry.
Electric files can help prevent nail technician hand and arm fatigue.

How do I remove acrylic nails safely?........Why would you ever want to?!

Its always best to come to the salon and have nail enhancements removed properly by a nail technician as i can shape, tidy and buff them back to a high shine for you...just like shining your shoes it will help protect them from the elememts!
If you would prefer to remove them at home Clip the tips (length) down as far as you need. Get some pure acetone from any store that sells regular polish remover. Take some aluminum foil cut into squares, and some cotton balls.

Wet the cotton ball with acetone, lay it on the nail and cover with the foil, as tight as possible. Repeat all 10 nails or one hand at a time. Do not peek or open the foil for at least 20 minutes, then one at a time, remove the foils and with a wood pusher - orange wood stick- scrape the acrylic off.. it should come right off.. you can repeat if some traces are left. If you peek, the acrylic will start to harden immediately, so it's best to be patient :)

When you get it all off make sure you give your self a healthy dose of some good hand cream as the acetone is very drying to the surrounding skin.

Temporary Nails for a special occasion

We do not call them fake nails!! We call them "enhancements", sounds so much nicer don't you think??? Besides, any nail tech worth her weight will explain:
You paid for them so they are real :)

We highly suggest getting "party tips" for special occasions. These are temporary enhancements that should last several days. If applied correctly there will be no damage to your nails and can be easily removed after your happy day. This type of service is highly recommended for young ladies under 16 or so.

Nail Diseases & Disorders

Our bodies host a variety of microorganisms, some of which are beneficial to us. These microorganisms also include bacteria and fungi. Fungal infections are caused by microscopic plants that live on our skin and on the dead tissue of our hair and nails. The following list contains the more common nail irregularities, diseases and disorders. For information on nail problems not listed here, please refer to the links at the bottom of this page.

Please be aware that Nail Technicians are only licensed to beautify the hands, and not to diagnose or treat nail diseases and disorders. Please seek the advice of your physician or dermatologist for a proper diagnosis and medical treatment.

Paronychia infections of the nail fold can be caused by bacteria, fungi and some viruses. The proximal and lateral nail folds act as a barrier, or seal, between the nail plate and the surrounding tissue. If a tear or a break occurs in this seal, the bacterium can easily enter. this type of infection is characterized by pain, redness and swelling of the nail folds. People who have their hands in water for extended periods may develop this condition, and it is highly contagious.

Paronychia Infection

Pseudomonas bacterial infection can occur between the natural nail plate and the nail bed, and/or between an artificial nail coating and the natural nail plate. Many people have been led to believe that the classic 'green' discoloration of this type of infection is some type of mold. In actuality, mold is not a human pathogen. The discoloration is simply a by-product of the infection and is caused primarily by iron compounds. Pseudomonas thrive in moist places; it feeds off the dead tissue and bacteria in the nail plate, while the moisture levels allow it to grow. The after effects of this infection will cause the nail plate to darken and soften underneath an artificial coating. The darker the discoloration, the deeper into the nail plate layers the bacteria has traveled. If the bacteria has entered between the nail plate and the nail bed, it will cause the same discolorations and may also cause the nail plate to lift from the nail bed.

Pseudomonas bacterium
trapped between the nail
plate and the nail bed.
("The 'Greenies")

A fungal or yeast infection which results in Onychomycosis, can invade through a tear in the proximal and lateral nail folds as well as the eponychium. This type of infection is characterized by onycholysis (nail plate separation) with evident debris under the nail plate. It normally appears white or yellowish in color, and may also change the texture and shape of the nail. The fungus digests the keratin protein of which the nail plate is comprised. As the infection progresses, organic debris accumulates under the nail plate often discoloring it. Other infectious organisms may be involved, and if left untreated, the nail plate may separate from the nail bed and crumble off.

Fungal Infection of the nail plate.

Tinea Unguis, or ringworm of the nails, is characterized by nail thickening, deformity, and eventually results in nail plate loss.

Ringworm of the nails.

Onychatrophia is an atrophy or wasting away of the nail plate which causes it to lose its luster, become smaller and sometimes shed entirely. Injury or disease may account for this irregularity.

Nail Atrophy

Onychogryposis are claw-type nails that are characterized by a thickened nail plate and are often the result of trauma. This type of nail plate will curve inward, pinching the nail bed and sometimes require surgical intervention to relieve the pain.

Ingrown Toenail

Onychorrhexis are brittle nails which often split vertically, peel and/or have vertical ridges. This irregularity can be the result of heredity, the use of strong solvents in the workplace or the home, including household cleaning solutions. Although oil or paraffin treatments will re-hydrate the nail plate, one may wish to confer with a physician to rule out disease.

Vertical Split in the nail plate.

Onychauxis is evidenced by over-thickening of the nail plate and may be the result of internal disorders -- seek medical advice.

Onychauxis

Leuconychia is evident as white lines or spots in the nail plate and may be caused by tiny bubbles of air that are trapped in the nail plate layers due to trauma. This condition may be hereditary and no treatment is required as the spots will grow out with the nail plate.

Leuconychia

Beau's Lines are nails that are characterized by horizontal lines of darkened cells and linear depressions. This disorder may be caused by trauma, illness, malnutrition or any major metabolic condition, chemotherapy or other damaging event, and is the result of any interruption in the protein formation of the nail plate. Seek a physicians diagnosis.

Beaus Lines

Koilonychia is usually caused through iron deficiency anemia. these nails show raised ridges and are thin and concave. Seek a physicians advice and treatment.

Koilonychia

Melanonychia are vertical pigmented bands, often described as nail 'moles', which usually form in the nail matrix. Seek a physicians care should you suddenly see this change in the nail plate. It could signify a malignant melanoma or lesion. Dark streaks may be a normal occurrence in dark-skinned individuals, and are fairly common.

Melanonychia

Pterygium is the inward advance of skin over the nail plate, usually the result of trauma to the matrix due to a surgical procedure or by a deep cut to the nail plate. Pterygium results in the loss of the nail plate due to the development of scar tissue. Cortisone is used to prevent the advancement of scar tissue. Never attempt to remove pterygium -instead, consult a physician for advice and treatment.

NOTE: The 'true cuticle' is often referred to as Pterygium. If you have pterygium, it can only be treated by a physician and should never be removed by a nail technician.

Pterygium

Pterygium Inversum Unguis is an acquired condition characterized by a forward growth of the hyponychium characterized by live tissue firmly attached to the underside of the nail plate, which contains a blood supply and nerves. Possible causes are systemic, hereditary, or from an allergic reaction to acrylics or solvents. Never use force to 'push back' the advancing hyponychium -- it is an extremely painful approach, and will result in a blood flow. Consult a physician for diagnosis and treatment.

Pterygium Inversum Unguis

Psoriasis of the nails is characterized by raw, scaly skin and is sometimes confused with eczema. When it attacks the nail plate, it will leave it pitted, dry, and it will often crumble. The plate may separate from the nail bed and may also appear red, orange or brown, with red spots in the lunula. Do not attempt salon treatments on a client with Nail Psoriasis. Consult with a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.

Psoriasis of the nails

MMA Damaged Nails: D. Tuggle, owner of The Nail Academy, Jamaica, Queens, N.Y., submitted this picture of nails damaged by MMA to the BeautyTech Web Site and allowed it to be added to this page. MMA (methyl methacrylate) is a liquid monomer used for acrylic nails by some unscrupulous salons even though it is considered by and prohibited by the FDA to be a poisonous and deleterious substance. According to Dianna Bonn of Indiana, as of May 1, 1999, 23 states have banned this chemical from being used in nail salons. MMA nails are very rigid and do not bend or have the flexibility to break. When MMA does finally break, it will break the natural nail with it, causing severe nail damage.

MMA Damage
Photo by D. Tuggle

Brittle Nails are characterized by a vertical splitting or separation of the nail plate layers at the distal (free) edge of the nail plate. In most cases, nail splitting and vertical ridges are characteristic of the natural aging process. This nail problem is also the result of overexposure to water and chemical solvents such as household cleaning solutions. As we age, the nail bed's natural flow of oils and moisture is greatly reduced. This oil and moisture is the cement that holds the nail plate layers together and gives the plate its inherent flexibility. At the first signs of splitting or peeling, re-hydrate the nail plate layers with a good quality cuticle and nail oil that contains Jojoba and Vitamin E as two of the botanical oils. Jojoba oil has a very tiny molecule which can penetrate the nail plate surface, open up the layers and draw the Vitamin E in after it. The molecular structure of Vitamin E is too large to penetrate the nail plate layers or the surface layer of the skin without the benefits of Jojoba oil. Oil the nail plate and surrounding cuticle at least twice daily; more if you have your hands in water a lot. Wear gloves whenever working with household cleaning solutions, and remember: water is considered the 'universal solvent', and is indeed a 'chemical'.

Splitting Layers

Peeling Layers

Vertical Ridges are also characteristic of aging, although are not limited to the aged or elderly. The nail plate grows forward on the nail bed in a 'rail and groove' effect, much like a train rides on its' tracks. As we age, the natural oil and moisture levels decline in the nail plate, and this rail and groove effect becomes apparent. Ridged nails will improve through re-hydration of the nail plate with twice daily applications of a good quality nail and cuticle oil containing Jojoba and Vitamin E.

A Hematoma is the result of trauma to the nail plate. It can happen from simply trapping your finger or toe in the car door to friction from improperly fitting or 'too-tight' shoes, to a sports related injury. A hammer does a pretty good job at causing a hematoma as well! The nail bed will bleed due to this trauma, and the blood is trapped between the nail bed and the nail plate. A hematoma may also indicate a fractured bone. Many people who participate in sports activities experience hematoma because of the constant friction from the shoes against the toenails. Hematoma may result in nail plate separation and infection because the blood can attract fungi and bacteria. If several days have passed and the blood clot becomes painful, the nail plate may require removal so the nail bed can be cleansed.

Nail Patella Syndrome is a rare genetic disorder involving nail and skeletal deformities (among a host of other related anomalies) that occurs in approximately 2.2 out of every 100,000 people. It is transmitted as a simple autosomal dominant characteristic in the ABO blood group (Autosomal dominant means that you only have to inherit one copy of the gene to get it). It also means that there is no such thing as an unaffected carrier, and NPS CAN NOT skip a generation.

In cases where there seems to be no previous family history of NPS, it is thought to be caused by a sporadic gene mutation (which is probably how it began in all families at one time or another). Once NPS is in a family, the risk of transmitting the disorder from parent to offspring is 50% for each pregnancy, regardless of the sex of the child, with females being affected approximately 10% more often.

The severity of nail dysplasia is extremely variable. Nails may be small and concave, longitudinally grooved, abnormally split, pitted, softened, discolored, or brittle. Toe nails are usually less affected than finger nails.

Click on the photo to go to related Web Site.

The aforementioned nail irregularities are among those I have been witness to during my years in the salon. There are others that only a trained dermatologist will be able to diagnose and treat. Some are contagious, and some are the result of injury or illness. Physicians will sometimes examine your fingernails because many diseases will appear as various changes in the nail plate. Any change in the nail plate could be cause for concern, whether it is a simple splinter hemorrhage that appears as a tiny black line in the nail plate, or a drastic change. Nail technicians are trained to beautify the hands/feet and are not allowed to diagnose nail diseases or to treat them in the salon. For your nail health, seek the diagnosis and recommendation of a knowledgeable dermatologist.

This site contains some very graphic photographs of nail diseases and is worth a visit. Just click on the icon at left.